Signed Cartier 18K Gold Diamond Onyx Hand Holding Rose Brooch Art Deco Retro Fre

CARTIER | Signed 18K Yellow Gold, Onyx, Diamond and Enamel Hand Holding Rose Figural Brooch | Art Deco / Retro Period | French Eagle Head Assay Mark

An exceptional and extremely rare signed Cartier figural brooch depicting a carved black onyx hand clasping a sculpted three-dimensional 18K yellow gold rose, set at its center with a brilliant-cut diamond. The wrist is detailed with a red enamel cuff accented by a bracelet of rose-cut diamonds in white gold or platinum. The reverse bears the engraved Cartier signature and the French eagle head assay mark, confirming 18K gold content and authentic French manufacture.

This is one of Cartier's most celebrated and sought-after figural motifs from the Art Deco and Retro periods. Black onyx versions of this design are significantly rarer than the more frequently documented coral-hand examples, making this a particularly important and collectible piece. Comparable examples from this design family have appeared at Christie's, Sotheby's, and Phillips, and related pieces are held in museum collections including the Victoria and Albert Museum in London.

SPECIFICATIONS

Maker: Cartier (engraved signature on reverse) Origin: France (French Eagle Head assay mark confirming 18K gold and French manufacture) Period: Circa 1930s to 1950s, Art Deco to Retro transition Metal: 18K Yellow Gold throughout Total Weight: 17.50 grams Center Stone: Brilliant-cut diamond set at center of rose Hand Material: Carved black hardstone, likely onyx Cuff Detail: Red enamel with rose-cut diamond bracelet in white metal Clasp: Pin stem with safety catch on reverse

DIMENSIONS

Height: Approximately 1.75 to 2 inches Rose diameter: Approximately 1 to 1.25 inches A substantial and wearable statement size.

HISTORICAL CONTEXT

During the 1930s through 1950s Cartier evolved from the geometric precision of Art Deco into the bold sculptural gold work of the Retro era. Figural jewels became one of the Maison's most expressive outlets, with hands holding flowers emerging as a powerful symbol of romance, elegance, and theatrical femininity. Cartier frequently paired carved hardstones including coral, jade, lapis, and onyx with sculptural gold and diamond accents in these figural compositions. These pieces were produced in very limited numbers and are now among the most actively collected Cartier vintage designs on the market.

The black onyx hand version is particularly uncommon. The dramatic contrast between deep polished onyx and the warm luminosity of 18K yellow gold gives this example a bold, almost surrealist quality that distinguishes it from the more commonly seen coral versions. The inclusion of a red enamel cuff with rose-cut diamond bracelet adds a further layer of polychrome luxury characteristic of Cartier's finest decorative work from this period.

WHY THIS PIECE

Signed Cartier with French eagle assay mark, fully verifiable authentic French manufacture. Rarer black onyx version of a celebrated Cartier design family. 18K yellow gold construction at 17.50 grams with genuine old-cut diamond center. Art Deco and Retro Cartier figural brooches are among the most actively collected and consistently appreciating categories in the vintage jewelry market. Comparable coral and enamel examples from this design family regularly appear at major international auction houses. This black onyx variant is a genuinely scarce find.